buddhism – Adventure Quest

This ancient city was once the capital of Japan ( 794AD-1868). The name literally translates into “Capital City”. FYI–the current capital ( Tokyo) means “East Capital” and has the same letters arranged differently. Kyoto has over 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites and over 2,000 temples or shrines. There’s much to see and do. Part 2 will follow this post in a few days.

I loved exploring this city. It’s a combination of ultra modern to the opposite– ancient and steeped in tradition.

ARASHIYAMA BAMBOO GROVE:

If you want any chance of photography here—go as early as possible! We went in the morning, but it was still crowded and hard to get clear shots. The forest is mezmerizing in it’s repitition. Sunlight somehow looks more golden. There’s an aura of security and protection.

Tenryu-ji Temple

This World Cultural Heritage site is the Zen Buddhist temple of the heavenly dragon. It is the lead temple built in 1339 by Shogun Ashikaga Takauji in Emperor Go-Daigo’s ( 1288-1339) memory. In the 13th century, Emperor Kaeyana built a villa on the property and this is where his grandson, Go-Daigo, was raised and educated. After Go passed away, the villa became a zen temple. A total of 8 fires caused destruction over the centuries, so most of the buildings date to the Meiji period (1868-1912). Note that the landscape garden is one of the oldest in Japan dating to the 14th century! Blows my mind how old these gardens are.

Kinkakuji–The Golden Temple

What’s not to love about a shiny gold-leafed Zen Buddhist Temple? As usual in Japan, this didn’t start out as a temple, but once was a retirement villa dating from 1397 for the third Shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. In 1950, a mentally unstable monk burned the place down and it was rebuilt in 1955. Renovations were done in 1987 with gold-leaf applied 5 times thicker. On the top is a golden phoenix named Fenghuang– a mythical creature that reigns over other birds. Mezmerized, I turned in circles, surrounded by beauty. Sadly, the building is not open to the public but the gardens, royal teahouse carved into rock and the temple are worth it.

Senkoji Temple

Cross the Togetsu bridge over the Oi River, turn right and hire a hand poled boat to 400 year-old Senkoji Temple that was built as a prayer hall for Emperor Go-Saga. In 1959. a Typhoon damaged the temple, but through hard work, it was repaired. Climb uphill approximately 200 steps for an intimate visit with the charming Zen monk who lives there. Near the top is a large bell that announces your arrival, wind up a few more curves to the small temple and delight in the beautiful view overlooking the valley below. We entered and sat on benches for a class in the history of Zen and the Thousand Arms Kannon, breathing techniques and meditation. Chanting prayers swirled around the room as the drum beat echoed in my chest. Afterwards, we shared in a tea ceremony and enjoyed the views.

Kyoto Train Station Complex

I watched th movie “The Tereminal” a few years back about a refugee who lived in an airport terminal for 18 years. It’s based on a true story but, I would advise Karimi Nasseri to go to the Kyoto train station complex next time. There’s a hotel, an overwhelming amount of restaurants, theater and stages, a museum, sky garden, boutique stores and department stores like my favorite Isetan packed into fifteen floors of ulta-modern glass and steel designed by Hiroshi Hara ( 1936-2007). It’s so modern, that I was surprised that it was built in 1952. (truly! 71 years ago!)

inside the train station looking at the Kyoto Tower

Everything and everyone connects through here from the metra, train or bus stations located in the bottom of the complex. Because it is vast with mega resources, this is a great area to stay in Kyoto.

We stayed in the Shinjuku station area which was convenient for the metra, trains, buses and yet the neighborhood was full of small restaurants and intimate bars. Among the huge department stores, such as high-end Isetan, there are small boutiques as well. A note to remember–downstairs in Isetan is an immense food court. Thirty minutes before closing all the food is discounted for take away meals or treats. Personally, I was overwhelmed with the food choices and by the time I looked at each case I couldn’t remember how to get back to the suishi section.

Meji Jingu Shrine

The 122nd Emperor, Meji, and the Empress Shoken’s spirits infuse the breeze through the man-made forest created with trees found from all corners of Japan. Over 10,000 trees were planted here. The wind ruffles your hair and is drawn in with each breath. Exhale pushes forward spinning prayer requests hanging at the holy temple. Prayers are released and rise skyward.

In 1868, the restored emperor took the name Meji which means “enlightened rule”. This happened after the feudal Shogun’s (generals) fell. This also ended the Samurai warriors who were appointed to protect the military system. Japan finally opened borders after 217 years ( meaning no colonists and no Christians’ allowed). Meji led the country into the modern world with a constitution, parliament and infrastructure projects like railroads stitching the country together.

After Meji’s death in 1912, construction of this shrine began at a place embodied with prosperity and safety. Life events, such as the birth of a child are celebrated and prayed for here. We delighted in seeing children (5-years for boys, 3 and 7-years for girls) with their parents praying for continued good health. There were a few coming-of-age young women shyly smiling at well-wishers.

Weddings also happen here, which makes sense with vibes of good fortune and health. The processions, led by a Buddhist monk, are magic to watch. Burning incense rises from braziers purifying everyone.

Near the exit, there’s a fortune telling kiosk that is crammed with people waiting to pay to know what the future holds for them. I’ll wait. Surprises are better.

Shinjuku Garden

We walked to this garden from our hotel on a lovely day in October. It used to be a home of Lord Takato of the Naito clan in the Edo period ( 1591). The house (circa 1906) is still there, but it wasn’t open to view so we headed next door to the greenhouse complex established in 1872 as a research station. A path winds it’s way around a waterfall and huge waterlilies are at the bottom of the stream where it opens to a small pond.

The outside pond with surrounding garden was completed in 1772. Imagine the pavillion filled with royals —well until after WW11 when the entire garden was opened to the public.

children playing red light/green light in the garden

We stopped for something to eat the tea house that offers traditional seating on the floor or low tables. the tea was wonderful and so were the sweet coated soybean cakes.

Asakusa for Drumming and Sensoji Temple

We took the metro to Asakusa and walked along the river enjoying unusual architecture such as the golden turd. But we were on our way to a drum lesson a short distance away.

We did have a lesson, which was really fun although I’m glad it wasn’t taped. From the drum manufacture, we walked towards Sensoji Temple and encountered a group on the street drumming too. There’s such joy in finding the unexpected!

Sensoji Buddhist Temple

There is a story that began in 628 about 2 brothers who were fishing and found a statue of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva Kannon who is known to be the most compassionate diety and relieves suffering. In 645 a Buddhist priest built a hall here for the statue which he quickly hid under a veil. Later, an “identical” statue was created that is rarely shown publicly. Such drama!

Asakusa Kannon’s popularity grew over the centuries and currently 30 million visitors come here every year. There are several points of entry and all of them are filled with food venders to feed the bulging crowds. Best to make a point of eating lunch early or quite late. The Tempura restaurant was very popular.

The Main hall was built by the 3rd shogun but was destroyed in a bombing raid during WW11. It was rebuilt in late 1950. The hall is divided into an inner and outer sanctum with the Kannon in a special locked temple in the middle. It’s not appropriate to take pictures with people praying, but I used a long zoom that I used from the outside steps.

the five-storied Pagoda was built in 942 and destroyed in WW11. It was rebuilt in 1973 with donations. Buddhas ashes were given as a gift to the new Pagoda.

Let’s dress up!

In general, the men and women of Tokyo dress very nicely. Lovely suits, shiny shoes and beautiful purses. Elegant dresses and heels. There aren’t any slouchy pants that fall below the waist or gym shoes for that matter—unless someone is in the park and jogging.

What was super fun was watching the teenage to college-aged women who either dressed up as baby dolls, cats, bunnies or even Scottish kilts. Everyone wears kimono’s and there are a variety of rental stores if you don’t happen to have one. We had a home-hosted dinner and the lady of the house has over 80 silk kimono’s! Even I got to dress in one of hers, which was wonderful.