#Japan

Kyoto–Part 2–Todaiju Temple, Fushimi Inari Shrine, Geisha district and Nishiki Market

Todaiju Temple:

The huge south gate is the main entrance to the temple, built in the Chinese style of the 12th century with a hip and gable roof. Eighteen giant pillars support the roof. Two statues of guardian dieties ( named Todai-ji or two kings) are on either side. The gate is quite impressive and I wasn’t surprised to learn that it’s the largest in Japan.

The Great Buddha hall ( 749 A.D.) is the largest wood building in the world. It burned twice–1180 and 1567. The height and depth of this building matches the origional, but it’s a bit smaller in length since funds were limited. The seated Buddha of light, knowledge and compassion is named Vairocana Buddha and He is fifty-two feet high. His teachings and mission are to save all living things, so when you walk around you’ll see insects and lotus pedals which remind the faithful that no person lives an isolated existense. Everything living dependents upon each other.

ancient 8-sided lantern in front of the hall

IMPERIAL PALACE–NIJO-J0 CASTLE

Construction was ccompleted on the palace in 1603 for the Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa. One of the daughters of the 2nd Shogun became the consort of the emperor in 1620, creating a circle of power. In 1867, the feudal system and Japan’s 200 years of isolation from the world changed. The Shogun turned the castle over to Emperor Nijo as an imperial villa in 1867. His corronation occured here in 1915 and the main banquet hall was added as well as the south gate. This became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994. There are six connected buildings that zig-zag around 33 rooms. All are beautifully decorated with stylized tigers, hawks, leopards, pines and cherry blossoms or scenes from all four seasons. There’s a walkway in the palace called the Nightingale corridor that sounds like birds singing. This is caused by clamps moving against nails. No pictures allowed inside the palace.

Geisha District–Gion

Gion is one out of five entertainment districts in Kyoto where you can walk past “okiya” houses where apprentice geishas ( Maiko) live with their mentors.Their wooden homes are called “Ochaya” and each girl has her own sign with her name at the door. The light is beautiful here at night and all was quiet as we wandered the narrow cobblestone streets lit by red lanterns.

Ochaya house with girls names above entry

Fushimi Inari Shinto Shrine

This shrine dedicated to the goddess of rice and commerce and the god Inari was founded in 711 A.D. Think about how Europeans lived in that same timeframe to knock your socks off about this accomplishment. The many fox statues you see wandering the grounds are the god’s messengers. Many people pray here for safety, fullfillment of wishes and for prosperity. There are over 10,000 gates donated by benefactors and over 32,000 subgates called torii. Why are the gates this color red-orange? Vermillion is thought to protect against evil. This is a magical place with views of infinity. There’s a hike to the top of the mountain with smaller shrines but we didn’t have time (2 hours) to do it. There are two times to go for better photography–as the sun is rising or at night when the dimmly lit gates throw interesting shadows. I think this was my favorite shrine–I won’t bore you with the huge amount of pictures I took!

wrapping up morning prayers at the main shrine. note sake bottle offerings

Nishiki Market

This was my favorite market in Japan because of the food market and the connected covered shopping arcades. At the east end there’s a small shrine. You can buy just about anything from food, jewelry, pottery, books, clothing, and so on. The market is over 400 years old and the older shops are identified by wood signs.

good lunch place. seafood served either boiled or fried

candy vendor who has a nephew living in Seattle. Had trouble formating the video to fit correctly.

Kyoto–Part 1

This ancient city was once the capital of Japan ( 794AD-1868). The name literally translates into “Capital City”. FYI–the current capital ( Tokyo) means “East Capital” and has the same letters arranged differently. Kyoto has over 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites and over 2,000 temples or shrines. There’s much to see and do. Part 2 will follow this post in a few days.

I loved exploring this city. It’s a combination of ultra modern to the opposite– ancient and steeped in tradition.

ARASHIYAMA BAMBOO GROVE:

If you want any chance of photography here—go as early as possible! We went in the morning, but it was still crowded and hard to get clear shots. The forest is mezmerizing in it’s repitition. Sunlight somehow looks more golden. There’s an aura of security and protection.

Tenryu-ji Temple

This World Cultural Heritage site is the Zen Buddhist temple of the heavenly dragon. It is the lead temple built in 1339 by Shogun Ashikaga Takauji in Emperor Go-Daigo’s ( 1288-1339) memory. In the 13th century, Emperor Kaeyana built a villa on the property and this is where his grandson, Go-Daigo, was raised and educated. After Go passed away, the villa became a zen temple. A total of 8 fires caused destruction over the centuries, so most of the buildings date to the Meiji period (1868-1912). Note that the landscape garden is one of the oldest in Japan dating to the 14th century! Blows my mind how old these gardens are.

Kinkakuji–The Golden Temple

What’s not to love about a shiny gold-leafed Zen Buddhist Temple? As usual in Japan, this didn’t start out as a temple, but once was a retirement villa dating from 1397 for the third Shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. In 1950, a mentally unstable monk burned the place down and it was rebuilt in 1955. Renovations were done in 1987 with gold-leaf applied 5 times thicker. On the top is a golden phoenix named Fenghuang– a mythical creature that reigns over other birds. Mezmerized, I turned in circles, surrounded by beauty. Sadly, the building is not open to the public but the gardens, royal teahouse carved into rock and the temple are worth it.

Senkoji Temple

Cross the Togetsu bridge over the Oi River, turn right and hire a hand poled boat to 400 year-old Senkoji Temple that was built as a prayer hall for Emperor Go-Saga. In 1959. a Typhoon damaged the temple, but through hard work, it was repaired. Climb uphill approximately 200 steps for an intimate visit with the charming Zen monk who lives there. Near the top is a large bell that announces your arrival, wind up a few more curves to the small temple and delight in the beautiful view overlooking the valley below. We entered and sat on benches for a class in the history of Zen and the Thousand Arms Kannon, breathing techniques and meditation. Chanting prayers swirled around the room as the drum beat echoed in my chest. Afterwards, we shared in a tea ceremony and enjoyed the views.

Kyoto Train Station Complex

I watched th movie “The Tereminal” a few years back about a refugee who lived in an airport terminal for 18 years. It’s based on a true story but, I would advise Karimi Nasseri to go to the Kyoto train station complex next time. There’s a hotel, an overwhelming amount of restaurants, theater and stages, a museum, sky garden, boutique stores and department stores like my favorite Isetan packed into fifteen floors of ulta-modern glass and steel designed by Hiroshi Hara ( 1936-2007). It’s so modern, that I was surprised that it was built in 1952. (truly! 71 years ago!)

inside the train station looking at the Kyoto Tower

Everything and everyone connects through here from the metra, train or bus stations located in the bottom of the complex. Because it is vast with mega resources, this is a great area to stay in Kyoto.

Bullet Train to Kanazawa

211 miles in an hour! Super smooth and quiet ride–not like Chicago trains where travelers get jerked around like a carnival ride. No clackety-clack so loud that you can’t hear. The numerous obento take-away boxes (lunch) at the station didn’t impress me, but Ramen Noodle soup from 7-11 has taken a huge leap from US to Japanese style. Take Hikari #637 to Express Train: Shirasagi 7

I think I’m in love with Kanazawa. Here’s a few reasons why:

Kenrokuen Garden: Is in the top 3 gardens of Japan and was created by successive feudal lords ( Edo period –1603-1867) in the meiyu-style which must have a pond to resemble the ocean, an island like Japan where immortals live, and the concepts of longevity and prosperity. This is a walking garden with many places such as tea houses to absorb the beauty. Look at the immense tree in the fourth picture. It’s just jaw-dropping! This garden took over 421 years to develop and it continues to grow.

Digital Team Lab at Kanazawa Castle: The partially reconstructed castle is across the street from the garden above. The castle was ruled by the Maeda clan for 14 generations until 1945. The origional castle had been 6-storeys, but burned down in 1602. Maeda built a smaller 3-storey palace which also burned down in 1631 and more fires occured in 1759. The fortification was turned over to the military in 1871. The outter and inner moats, gates and inner walls are formidable. We were lucky that Team Lab had a night display at the castle–catch their art if you can.

projections onto inner moat walls

The Samurai House and Gardens

At first, Samurai warriors lived inside the castle walls but eventually they moved to their own walled neighborhood where homes were built for their families. Twelve generations of the Nomura family lived in this home built with cypress, rosewood and ebony. Every sliding door opens to reveal another beautiful garden. From the Chamber and study there is a waterfall, stream, a bridge made from cherry granite, and many stone lanterns. A particular Japanese bayberry was planted 400 years ago.

a wall encircles the neighborhood, diviided in this section by a stream

Higashi Chaya District and Omicho Market :

Higashi is a neighborhood known for teahouses and Geisha. There are also restaurants and shops ( check out the gold-leaf jewelry) along narrow walkways. The nearby indoor market sells produce, meat, fish, specialty food dishes, clothing, and jewelry. Bob is eating tempura fried blow fish which he really liked.

Cultural night at the visitor center

The visitor center hosts different events, so check their schedule. We attended the Japanese culture night theater featuring Ikebana (Japanese floral decorating), sword dancing, a folk and classical music presentation. There was also a fan dance called “shibu”, which is a poetry performance.

Hakone

Hakone is located west of Tokyo and is in the Mount Fuji National Park. You’ll find Shinto shrines, beautiful lake Ashi and many spas offering thermal baths. Depending on where you stay–there are women only baths, men only, and limited private pools. FYI- Japanese baths are a naked experience and a family tradition. The ancient royal highway passes through here and you can walk along the tree-lined path that once took nobles and warlords to the capital in Kyoto. It’s super fun to take the cable cars over the boiling sulphur springs of the Owakudani valley. It will make you feel like you’re on another planet. Don’t forget to purchase black eggs hardboiled in sulphur vents. It’s said that you’ll live 7 years longer.

Tokyo

We stayed in the Shinjuku station area which was convenient for the metra, trains, buses and yet the neighborhood was full of small restaurants and intimate bars. Among the huge department stores, such as high-end Isetan, there are small boutiques as well. A note to remember–downstairs in Isetan is an immense food court. Thirty minutes before closing all the food is discounted for take away meals or treats. Personally, I was overwhelmed with the food choices and by the time I looked at each case I couldn’t remember how to get back to the suishi section.

Meji Jingu Shrine

The 122nd Emperor, Meji, and the Empress Shoken’s spirits infuse the breeze through the man-made forest created with trees found from all corners of Japan. Over 10,000 trees were planted here. The wind ruffles your hair and is drawn in with each breath. Exhale pushes forward spinning prayer requests hanging at the holy temple. Prayers are released and rise skyward.

In 1868, the restored emperor took the name Meji which means “enlightened rule”. This happened after the feudal Shogun’s (generals) fell. This also ended the Samurai warriors who were appointed to protect the military system. Japan finally opened borders after 217 years ( meaning no colonists and no Christians’ allowed). Meji led the country into the modern world with a constitution, parliament and infrastructure projects like railroads stitching the country together.

After Meji’s death in 1912, construction of this shrine began at a place embodied with prosperity and safety. Life events, such as the birth of a child are celebrated and prayed for here. We delighted in seeing children (5-years for boys, 3 and 7-years for girls) with their parents praying for continued good health. There were a few coming-of-age young women shyly smiling at well-wishers.

Weddings also happen here, which makes sense with vibes of good fortune and health. The processions, led by a Buddhist monk, are magic to watch. Burning incense rises from braziers purifying everyone.

Near the exit, there’s a fortune telling kiosk that is crammed with people waiting to pay to know what the future holds for them. I’ll wait. Surprises are better.

Shinjuku Garden

We walked to this garden from our hotel on a lovely day in October. It used to be a home of Lord Takato of the Naito clan in the Edo period ( 1591). The house (circa 1906) is still there, but it wasn’t open to view so we headed next door to the greenhouse complex established in 1872 as a research station. A path winds it’s way around a waterfall and huge waterlilies are at the bottom of the stream where it opens to a small pond.

The outside pond with surrounding garden was completed in 1772. Imagine the pavillion filled with royals —well until after WW11 when the entire garden was opened to the public.

children playing red light/green light in the garden

We stopped for something to eat the tea house that offers traditional seating on the floor or low tables. the tea was wonderful and so were the sweet coated soybean cakes.

Asakusa for Drumming and Sensoji Temple

We took the metro to Asakusa and walked along the river enjoying unusual architecture such as the golden turd. But we were on our way to a drum lesson a short distance away.

We did have a lesson, which was really fun although I’m glad it wasn’t taped. From the drum manufacture, we walked towards Sensoji Temple and encountered a group on the street drumming too. There’s such joy in finding the unexpected!

Sensoji Buddhist Temple

There is a story that began in 628 about 2 brothers who were fishing and found a statue of Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva Kannon who is known to be the most compassionate diety and relieves suffering. In 645 a Buddhist priest built a hall here for the statue which he quickly hid under a veil. Later, an “identical” statue was created that is rarely shown publicly. Such drama!

Asakusa Kannon’s popularity grew over the centuries and currently 30 million visitors come here every year. There are several points of entry and all of them are filled with food venders to feed the bulging crowds. Best to make a point of eating lunch early or quite late. The Tempura restaurant was very popular.

The Main hall was built by the 3rd shogun but was destroyed in a bombing raid during WW11. It was rebuilt in late 1950. The hall is divided into an inner and outer sanctum with the Kannon in a special locked temple in the middle. It’s not appropriate to take pictures with people praying, but I used a long zoom that I used from the outside steps.

the five-storied Pagoda was built in 942 and destroyed in WW11. It was rebuilt in 1973 with donations. Buddhas ashes were given as a gift to the new Pagoda.

Let’s dress up!

In general, the men and women of Tokyo dress very nicely. Lovely suits, shiny shoes and beautiful purses. Elegant dresses and heels. There aren’t any slouchy pants that fall below the waist or gym shoes for that matter—unless someone is in the park and jogging.

What was super fun was watching the teenage to college-aged women who either dressed up as baby dolls, cats, bunnies or even Scottish kilts. Everyone wears kimono’s and there are a variety of rental stores if you don’t happen to have one. We had a home-hosted dinner and the lady of the house has over 80 silk kimono’s! Even I got to dress in one of hers, which was wonderful.