#kyoto

Kyoto–Part 2–Todaiju Temple, Fushimi Inari Shrine, Geisha district and Nishiki Market

Todaiju Temple:

The huge south gate is the main entrance to the temple, built in the Chinese style of the 12th century with a hip and gable roof. Eighteen giant pillars support the roof. Two statues of guardian dieties ( named Todai-ji or two kings) are on either side. The gate is quite impressive and I wasn’t surprised to learn that it’s the largest in Japan.

The Great Buddha hall ( 749 A.D.) is the largest wood building in the world. It burned twice–1180 and 1567. The height and depth of this building matches the origional, but it’s a bit smaller in length since funds were limited. The seated Buddha of light, knowledge and compassion is named Vairocana Buddha and He is fifty-two feet high. His teachings and mission are to save all living things, so when you walk around you’ll see insects and lotus pedals which remind the faithful that no person lives an isolated existense. Everything living dependents upon each other.

ancient 8-sided lantern in front of the hall
ancient eight-sided lantern decorated with diamond motif and celestial musicians

IMPERIAL PALACE–NIJO-J0 CASTLE

Construction was ccompleted on the palace in 1603 for the Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa. One of the daughters of the 2nd Shogun became the consort of the emperor in 1620, creating a circle of power. In 1867, the feudal system and Japan’s 200 years of isolation from the world changed. The Shogun turned the castle over to Emperor Nijo as an imperial villa in 1867. His corronation occured here in 1915 and the main banquet hall was added as well as the south gate. This became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994. There are six connected buildings that zig-zag around 33 rooms. All are beautifully decorated with stylized tigers, hawks, leopards, pines and cherry blossoms or scenes from all four seasons. There’s a walkway in the palace called the Nightingale corridor that sounds like birds singing. This is caused by clamps moving against nails. No pictures allowed inside the palace.

watchtower surrounded by moat
ROOF DETAIL ON BUILDING INSIDE ENTRY GATE
MAIN GATE thought to date to 1600’s.
INNER Kara-mon Gate
CARVED WOOD DETAIL ON GATE
INSIDE THE PALACE HALLWAY CEILING DETAIL.
this garden was constructed in 1626 for the imperial visit.

Geisha District–Gion

Gion is one out of five entertainment districts in Kyoto where you can walk past “okiya” houses where apprentice geishas ( Maiko) live with their mentors.Their wooden homes are called “Ochaya” and each girl has her own sign with her name at the door. The light is beautiful here at night and all was quiet as we wandered the narrow cobblestone streets lit by red lanterns.

Ochaya house with girls names above entry
fellow traveler waiving at us from a restaurant
even sewer covers are dedicated to geisha
temple dedicated to entertainers

Fushimi Inari Shinto Shrine

This shrine dedicated to the goddess of rice and commerce and the god Inari was founded in 711 A.D. Think about how Europeans lived in that same timeframe to knock your socks off about this accomplishment. The many fox statues you see wandering the grounds are the god’s messengers. Many people pray here for safety, fullfillment of wishes and for prosperity. There are over 10,000 gates donated by benefactors and over 32,000 subgates called torii. Why are the gates this color red-orange? Vermillion is thought to protect against evil. This is a magical place with views of infinity. There’s a hike to the top of the mountain with smaller shrines but we didn’t have time (2 hours) to do it. There are two times to go for better photography–as the sun is rising or at night when the dimmly lit gates throw interesting shadows. I think this was my favorite shrine–I won’t bore you with the huge amount of pictures I took!

wrapping up morning prayers at the main shrine. note sake bottle offerings

Nishiki Market

This was my favorite market in Japan because of the food market and the connected covered shopping arcades. At the east end there’s a small shrine. You can buy just about anything from food, jewelry, pottery, books, clothing, and so on. The market is over 400 years old and the older shops are identified by wood signs.

good lunch place. seafood served either boiled or fried
geoduck aka: gooey duck
strawberries in sweet mochi rice cake
candy vendor who has a nephew living in Seattle. Had trouble formating the video to fit correctly.

Kyoto–Part 1

This ancient city was once the capital of Japan ( 794AD-1868). The name literally translates into “Capital City”. FYI–the current capital ( Tokyo) means “East Capital” and has the same letters arranged differently. Kyoto has over 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites and over 2,000 temples or shrines. There’s much to see and do. Part 2 will follow this post in a few days.

I loved exploring this city. It’s a combination of ultra modern to the opposite– ancient and steeped in tradition.

ARASHIYAMA BAMBOO GROVE:

If you want any chance of photography here—go as early as possible! We went in the morning, but it was still crowded and hard to get clear shots. The forest is mezmerizing in it’s repitition. Sunlight somehow looks more golden. There’s an aura of security and protection.

Tenryu-ji Temple

This World Cultural Heritage site is the Zen Buddhist temple of the heavenly dragon. It is the lead temple built in 1339 by Shogun Ashikaga Takauji in Emperor Go-Daigo’s ( 1288-1339) memory. In the 13th century, Emperor Kaeyana built a villa on the property and this is where his grandson, Go-Daigo, was raised and educated. After Go passed away, the villa became a zen temple. A total of 8 fires caused destruction over the centuries, so most of the buildings date to the Meiji period (1868-1912). Note that the landscape garden is one of the oldest in Japan dating to the 14th century! Blows my mind how old these gardens are.

Kinkakuji–The Golden Temple

What’s not to love about a shiny gold-leafed Zen Buddhist Temple? As usual in Japan, this didn’t start out as a temple, but once was a retirement villa dating from 1397 for the third Shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate. In 1950, a mentally unstable monk burned the place down and it was rebuilt in 1955. Renovations were done in 1987 with gold-leaf applied 5 times thicker. On the top is a golden phoenix named Fenghuang– a mythical creature that reigns over other birds. Mezmerized, I turned in circles, surrounded by beauty. Sadly, the building is not open to the public but the gardens, royal teahouse carved into rock and the temple are worth it.

Senkoji Temple

Cross the Togetsu bridge over the Oi River, turn right and hire a hand poled boat to 400 year-old Senkoji Temple that was built as a prayer hall for Emperor Go-Saga. In 1959. a Typhoon damaged the temple, but through hard work, it was repaired. Climb uphill approximately 200 steps for an intimate visit with the charming Zen monk who lives there. Near the top is a large bell that announces your arrival, wind up a few more curves to the small temple and delight in the beautiful view overlooking the valley below. We entered and sat on benches for a class in the history of Zen and the Thousand Arms Kannon, breathing techniques and meditation. Chanting prayers swirled around the room as the drum beat echoed in my chest. Afterwards, we shared in a tea ceremony and enjoyed the views.

Kyoto Train Station Complex

I watched th movie “The Tereminal” a few years back about a refugee who lived in an airport terminal for 18 years. It’s based on a true story but, I would advise Karimi Nasseri to go to the Kyoto train station complex next time. There’s a hotel, an overwhelming amount of restaurants, theater and stages, a museum, sky garden, boutique stores and department stores like my favorite Isetan packed into fifteen floors of ulta-modern glass and steel designed by Hiroshi Hara ( 1936-2007). It’s so modern, that I was surprised that it was built in 1952. (truly! 71 years ago!)

inside the train station looking at the Kyoto Tower

Everything and everyone connects through here from the metra, train or bus stations located in the bottom of the complex. Because it is vast with mega resources, this is a great area to stay in Kyoto.